Buying A Bike
Getting a new bike is very exciting, but it can be a bit overwhelming if you are not sure what you are looking for. This section aims to give you some tips on finding the ideal bike for you and how much you might need to spend.
Bike shopping
- Take your time, shop around, visit a mixture of shops and get an idea of what each offer. Try and find a local shop where the staff are cyclists themselves, as they are a great source of advice, tips and local knowledge. Bike shops tend to be busiest on Saturdays at the start of summer and before Christmas, so if you can go at another time you are likely to get more personal attention and feel less pressured.
- Take a bike for a test ride to see if it’s what you expected and if you feel comfortable. Print off our guides to bicycle types, size and equipment to take with you if you need them.
- Don’t feel pressured into buying a bike straight away or uncomfortable about trying a range of bikes.
- Think clearly before you go about the type of cycling you intend to do and what is important for you in a bicycle. Then beware of ‘up-selling’ – if you are only cycling a few miles each week to work and back, you do not need the latest carbon-fibre components! If you are unsure, seek advice elsewhere.
- Think about purchasing any additional equipment you might need at the same time.
- Check to see if your workplace offers bicycles through the Cycle2Work scheme. If so, you may be able to get a substantial discount (typically at least 30%) off a new bicycle and accessories.
- Buying second hand bicycles, from bike shops, individuals, eBay or internet sites can yield some great bargains. However, there are more risks involved as there may be hidden flaws or problems. It is essential to check the frame for dents and cracks which can lead to structural failure and ensure the brakes and gears are safe and effective. If you are unsure, it is best to take someone with you who knows a lot about bikes. Also consider having a second-hand bicycle serviced before use.
- Buying unseen bikes, for example from the Internet or from a catalogue, can have similar problems and you may not be sure if it is right for you. The bike may also arrive in pieces which you will need to construct yourself.
How much to spend
Bicycles vary greatly in price. How much you need to spend depends on the sort of bike you will be buying, the amount of cycling you will be doing and your personal circumstances. You do, however, need to be realistic about how much to spend to buy a bike that meets your needs.
1. You get what you pay for
In general, the more expensive the bike, the better the quality of the materials and components will be – the more you spend, the better you’ll get. The improvements-per-£ are generally greatest at the lower end of the scale, so a £200 bike is likely to be much better that a £100 bike, but a £1200 bike may not be noticeably different from a £1100 bike, unless you are a regular or competitive cyclist.
2. If cheap, keep it simple.
You can get a good-quality, comfortable, durable bike for a relatively cheap price, but the more features and complicated components the bike has, the more you will need to pay if you want to retain the quality. So if you don’t have much to spend, choose a bike of a more basic design. The most important parts of any bike are the frame, brakes, wheels and gears, so it is important to make sure these are of good enough quality before considering any additional features. You will not get a decent full-suspension mountain bike with 27 gears, for example, for £200, but you might get a perfectly acceptable hybrid bike for that sort of money.
3. Do you really need extras?
Beware of spending more than you need for unnecessary extras and flashy components. If you are only pottering a couple of miles to work and back, you do not need the latest carbon-fibre components!
4. Personal requirements
Try to identify which are the most important factors for you (that you would be willing to spend more money on) and which are not so important, as you are likely to need to make some compromises somewhere unless you have an unlimited budget.
For example, if you are a large, 6’6’’, 20 stone man, strength and geometry might be very important qualities in a bike, while the weight of the bike might not be an issue. On the other hand, if you are an 8 stone sylph, the strength of the bike might not be a worry, whereas your ability to lift it might be far more critical!
The chart below outlines what you might expect from different types of bikes in different price ranges.
| Bicycle Type | Less than £150 | £150-£300 | £300-£500 | £500-£800 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Road | Not recommended. Seek discounts or second hand buys of more expensive bikes. | Entry level road bikes from well known manufacturers with good frames but low end components which may not last very long. | Good quality, light bikes with good components which will work and last well. Suitable for commuting and road racing. | Very good quality road bike with very light frame and good components. Suitable for commuting but aimed more at road racing. |
| Touring | Not recommended. Seek discounts or second hand buys of more expensive bikes. | Not recommended. Seek discounts or second hand buys of more expensive bikes. | Entry level bikes with racks for panniers, good quality frame and components. Comfortable for long rides. | Good quality bikes with racks for panniers with very good components which will be reliable and last well. Frame will be light and comfortable for long distance rides. |
| Hybrid | Entry level bikes available but best to look for offers to get a bike which was originally over £150. Frames will be heavy and cheaper components may affect performance. | At the higher end of this range you will get bikes from recognised brands with reasonable components. Bikes may be a bit heavy. | Good quality bike frames which will be reasonably light and comfortable. Branded components of good quality which make for a reliable bike. | High quality hybrid bike which will be well constructed and have good quality components which work well and last. Bike may have front suspension. |
| Mountain | Not recommended. Seek discounts or second hand buys of more expensive bikes. | Rigid frames and simple designs. Concentrate on quality of frame, brakes and gears. | Entry level front suspension (‘hardtail’) bikes, but full suspension not recommended in this price range. | Good quality hardtail bikes with better components, or entry level full suspension mountain bikes. |
| Folding | Probably second hand market only. | Entry level with limited number of gears. May be heavy to carry. | Better quality build, more gears to make cycling easier and higher quality components. | Good quality bike offering good build quality. Folding will be quick, simple and to a small size and offering very good pedalling efficiency. |
| Electric | Not available | Not available | Add on motor packs for bike available. | Entry level electric bike available but likely to be very heavy – not ideal when not using the motor. Expect to pay £1000 upwards for good quality. |
Money saving tips!
Find out if your employer participates in the government’s Cycle2Work Scheme. Buying a bike though this scheme can typically save you over 30%.
Buy at the right time. Bicycle manufacturers tend to release their new season bikes in September/October time. Remaining stocks of the current year’s model can often be picked up at discounted prices at this time. After Christmas can also be a good time.
If a bicycle’s looks aren’t important to you, bikes in colours that have proved less popular can sometimes be found for a discount towards the end of the year.
